Article from
Worldpress.org, August 24, 2004
“50 Best Restaurants in
the World…”
Europe-based Restaurant
Magazine recently revealed the 50 Best Restaurants in the World for
2004, chosen by an international panel of more than 300 hard-to-please
restaurateurs, chefs and critics.
The winner of the coveted number
one spot was The French Laundry in California, famed for combining
exceptional ingredients and wonderful surroundings with a fanatical
attention to detail.
This is the second year running
that chef Thomas Keller has scooped the award and he even found the time
to open a second restaurant, Per Se, In New York.
The 50 Best rankings and a full
list of award winners are shown below.
British restaurants had their
strongest showing yet with The Fat Duck in Bray ranking at number two,
and picking up awards for 'Best Newcomer to the List' and 'Best European
Restaurant.'
London restaurants dominated
this year's list. Entrants included classic fine-dining restaurants such
as Le Gavroche and The Square, fashionable haunts with comfort food such
as The Ivy and The Wolseley, winner of the 'Editors Choice' award, and
quirky modern classics such as cult eatery St John. The latter
restaurant won the 'Most improved Restaurant on the list' award and is
famed for its signature dishes of 'Roasted bone marrow' and 'Squirrel
with offal on toast.'
Thom Hetherington, Marketing
Director for Restaurant Magazine said, "This has been the year of the
big boys, with the world's recognized 'super-chefs' and major dining
cities like London, New York and Paris all reasserting themselves. That
said, it's great to see that such a variety of British restaurants made
the list. Their styles range from fine dining to casual; quirky to
classic and their cuisines include British, French, Italian and
Japanese. It is this eclectic yet outstanding offering which makes
London such a fabulous city to eat out in."
Restaurant Magazine — 50 Best
Restaurants in the World 2004
- French Laundry, Yountville, CA, USA
- The Fat Duck, Bray,
Berkshire, UK
- El Bulli, Montjoi, Spain
- L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Rue de
Montalembert, Paris
- Pierre Gagnaire, Rue Balzac, Paris
- Guy Savoy, Rue Troyon, Paris
- Nobu, Park Lane, London
- Restaurant Gordon Ramsay,
Royal Hospital Road, London
- Michel Bras, Laguiole, France
- Louis XV, Monaco
- Gramercy Tavern, New York
- Daniel, New York
- Tetsuya's, Sydney
- Hakkasan, London
- The Waterside Inn, Bray
- St. John, London
- L'Ami Louis, Paris
- Jean Georges, New York
- Le Gavroche, London
- Flower Drum, Melbourne
- The Merchant House, Ludlow
- Arzak, San Sebastian, Spain
- Dal Pescatore, Canneto sull'Oglio, Italy
- The Ivy, London
- Arpege, Paris
- El Raco de Can Fabes, San
Celoni, Spain
- Schwarzwaldstube, Baiersbronn, Germany
- The Cliff, Barbados
- Rockpool, Sydney
- Le Manoir Aux Quat'
Saisons, Oxford
- Al Mahara, Burj Al Arab, Dubai
- Charlie Trotter, Chicago
- Le Jardin des Sens, Montpellier
- The Square, London
- Spago, Los Angeles
- Bukhara, India
- Chez Panisse, California
- Le Meurice, Paris
- Trois Gros, Roanne, France
- Balthazar, New York
- River Cafe, London
- La Tupina, Bordeaux
- Auberge d'Ill, Illhauseern-Alsace
- Craft, New York
- Le Tour d'Argent, Paris
- La Maison de Marc Veyrat,
Annecy, France
- Felix, Peninsula Hotel, Hong Kong
- De Karmeliet, Bruges
- The Wolseley, London
- Gambero Rosso, San Vincenzo
Individual Award Winners
Best
Restaurant in the World: The French Laundry, CA, USA
Best
American Restaurant: The French Laundry, CA, USA
Best
European Restaurant: The Fat Duck, Bray, UK
Best
African and Middle Eastern Restaurant: Al Mahara, Dubai
Best Asian
Restaurant: Bukhara, New Delhi, India
Best
Australasian Restaurant: Tetsuya's, Sydney, Australia
Best
Newcomer to the List: The Fat Duck, Bray, UK
Most
Improved Restaurant on the List: St. John, London, UK
Outstanding
Value: Gramercy Tavern, NY, USA
Chef's
Choice (voted for by last year's 50 Best): Tetsuya's, Sydney, Australia
Editor's
Choice (voted for by editorial panel): The Wolseley, UK, London
Top Ten Best Restaurants in the
World: A Review
French Laundry
Yountville, California
"Is it possible that the best French restaurant is not in France?" asks
the critic from Le Monde. Well, it certainly appears so. Thomas Keller
holds pole position for the second year running with his Napa Valley
take on a three-star French country restaurant. The 10-course tasting
menu is incredible. Open with bagaduce oysters and ossetra caviar, then
wing through variations on truffles, tuna nicoise, sweet butter-poached
lobster, chicken and dumplings, spring lamb and so on, finishing in
triumph with the delice au chocolat et caramel. Heaven on a plate for
$220.
Bookings: Reserve up to two months in advance.
Where to stay: Continue the French-California theme at Maison
Fleurie — five minutes from the restaurant. It has 13 rooms set in a
peaceful landscaped garden. Bicycles are provided to help tick off the
surrounding Napa wineries.
THE FAT DUCK
Bray, Berkshire, UK
This is the place that does bacon-and-egg ice cream, snail porridge and
sardine-on-toast sorbet. So you can safely say you've never had a meal
like it. Run by chef Heston Blumenthal since it opened in 1995, it
picked up its third Michelin star in January. The spectacular
eight-course tasting menu includes all the above and costs $225.
Bookings: Reserve two weeks in advance for weekdays and at least
a month ahead for weekends.
Where to stay: Make a gastronomic weekend of it and stay at the
Michelin-starred nine-room Waterside Inn.
EL BULLI
Montjoi, Spain
With sweeping views
of the Costa Brava and an unprecedented approach to food, El Bulli is a
great adventure for the traveling gourmet. Ferran Adria opens his
restaurant from March to September; the rest of the time, he's in his
workshop, experimenting with new tastes and techniques. Be his guinea
pig and sign up for the $265 tasting menu.
Bookings: Don't hold your breath. There is no availability left
this year. Call now for dinner in April 2005.
Where to stay: Nearby Roses is packed and touristy. Head in the
other direction to Cala Joncols, a fairly modest 25-room hotel in its
own gardens behind the beach.
L'ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON
Rue de Montalembert, Paris
Ah, the French capital gets a look-in at last. You've got the next three
entries to chose from, and the first marks the 2003 return from
retirement of the most famous of French chefs. Joel Robuchon doesn't
have tables in his restaurant — diners sit on bar stools around the open
kitchen. So, France's best restaurant is a long way from the haughty
haute cuisine you might expect. Le Figaro was in no doubt: "C'est une
revolution!" Expect to pay about $186.
Bookings: You don't. You turn up with crossed fingers, put your
name on the list and wait at the bar.
Where to stay: The restaurant is attached to the historic Hotel
Pont Royal or, 15 minutes away, try Hotel de la Tulipe, hidden in an
ancient convent.
PIERRE GAGNAIRE
Rue Balzac, Paris
El Bulli's Adria has been dubbed the Salvador Dali of cooking. Gagnaire
should be its Matisse: a bold, experimental chef cooking up a storm in
the chic 8th arrondissement. The nine-course prix fixe menu costs $373.
Leave room for the famous Grand Dessert, seven mini delights such as rum
baba, roasted rhubarb and buckwheat pancake.
Bookings: Reservations are taken up to a month ahead.
Where to stay: The 1920's Hotel Elysees Matignon is also in the
8th arrondissement.
GUY SAVOY
Rue Troyon, Paris
Just around the
corner from the Arc de Triomphe, Savoy completes the Parisian
triumvirate, with classic tasting menus from $375. "To grow a carrot,
you have to wait several weeks," says the master chef. "We need to have
a deep respect for the product." And he does.
Bookings: You are looking at two or three weeks for an 8pm table.
Where to stay: Hotel de Banville (166 Boulevard Berthier; is a
classic, right in the heart of Paris and just a five-minute taxi ride
from the restaurant (With what you'll be eating you should walk).
NOBU
Park Lane, London
The fact that it is still the ultimate celebrity haunt shouldn't put you
off. There are eight Nobu's around the world, but London's is
consistently rated the best, its star quality a result not just of the
incredible Japanese/South American menu (don't miss the black cod with
miso), but of the sophisticated service and style. The chef's menu costs
$185.
Bookings: Reserve two weeks ahead for a Friday night, three weeks
for a Saturday evening.
Where to stay: Nobu is part of the super-trendy Metropolitan. We
recommend trying it.
RESTAURANT GORDON RAMSAY
Royal Hospital Road, London
Ramsay's first and best, established in 1998 and sporting a well
deserved three stars since 2001. When he's not roasting his kitchen
staff, Ramsay oversees a particularly intimate setup here — there are
just 14 tables. At $213, the seven-course menu prestige is great value,
especially with the wine list starting at $30. Treats include tortellini
of lobster and sautéed loin of venison with creamed cabbage and bitter
chocolate sauce.
Bookings: You can make a reservation up to one calendar month in
advance.
Where to stay: The boutique Myhotel Chelsea is a 15-minute walk
from the restaurant.
MICHEL BRAS
Laguiole, France
On a hilltop in the
middle of the French countryside sits this post-postmodern temple of
cuisine, like something that's dropped out of Stanley Kubrick's Space
Odyssey. The two menus — $165 and $269 — are a riot of rare ingredients,
accompanied by equally rare wines.
Bookings: Phone at least two months in advance. The restaurant is
open between April and October; we recommend booking in January.
Where to stay: The easiest way to get a table is to stay at
super-cool Michel Bras itself.
LOUIS XV
Monaco
As opulent dining
rooms go, this has to be the most opulent: huge chandeliers, ornate
frescoes and a quite preposterous flower arrangement. It's palatial, but
Alain Ducasse's menu does it proud, with true Riviera cuisine: Limousine
veal, Pyrenean lamb and amazing local herbs and breads. The six-course
(and more) menu gourmet costs $335.
Bookings: Call two or three weeks in advance.
Where to stay: Forget the budget. This is Monaco — lives how the
other half does at the spectacular Hotel de Paris, home to the Louis XV.